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The devastating earthquake of
1693 almost totally destroyed Mdina's old cathedral. The original cathedral
dated back to the 13th century and can be seen in two of Matteo Perez
d'Aleccio's frescos in the Grand Masters' Palace in Valletta. Less than 10 years after its
collapse, a new baroque church had risen in its place.
The cathedral was designed by the well-known Maltese architect, Lorenzo
Gafa. By this time he had already designed several churches in Malta and
was at the height of his career. The perfectly proportioned façade and the
dynamic dome (by far his boldest and arguably the finest in Malta) make
this the most impressive of all his churches. The work took just five years
to complete and a number of houses were demolished at the same time to make
way for a pjazza appropriate to the size and splendour of the church.
Inside, the immediate impression is one of grandeur. Though not quite as
rich as St John's Co-Cathedral in Valletta, it is
nevertheless reminiscent of that church in the gilded carvings, the
ornamental side chapels and the paintings that adorn the vault, apse and
chapels. Many of the paintings and carvings illustrate scenes from the life
of St Paul;
the finest is Mattia Preti's mural of The Shipwreck of St Paul, decorating
the apse. This was one of the few treasures in the old church that survived
the earthquake.
Mdina Cathedral Museum
Treasures salvaged from the original earthquake cathedral are now housed in
a splendid baroque palace which once served as a Diocesan seminary. The
collection of paintings, prints, woodcuts and old master drawings is the
legacy of Count Saverio Marchese (1757 - 1833), a wealthy patron of the
arts. Particularly fine among the works of art are the woodcuts by Durer,
the engravings by Rembrandt and the 14th-century St Paul Polyptych which
once adorned the high altar of the old cathedral. Here St Paul, enthroned in majesty, is
surrounded by graphic depictions of episodes from his life. Among other
museum exhibits are finely illustrated choir books, elaborate vestments,
silver plate and a coin collection spanning over 2,000 years, including a
complete set of Roman coins minted in Malta and Gozo. The old refectory of
the seminary has been preserved, as has the charming 18th-century octagonal
chapel.
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