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The 18th-century traveller,
Patrick Brydone, noted that 'the Grand Master (who studies conveniency more
than magnificence) is more comfortably and commodiously, lodged than any
prince in Europe, the King of Sardenia
perhaps only excepted'. Despite malicious pillaging by Napoleon's troops
following the French occupation in 1798 (and an inappropriately severe
façade), the palace still gives you a good idea of the splendour to which
the Grand Masters were accustomed.
Converted from a smaller house, the palace was designed by Geralomo Cassar
in 1571. From the time of its completion, until the end of the Order's
reign in Malta
(1798), the palace was used by all the Grand Masters. In 1800 it became the
official residence of the British governors. The palace is now the
Presidential Office and Malta's
Parliament house.
The two courtyards originally formed one large area. Neptune's
Court, in the centre, is named after a bronze statue of the sea god,
standing among greenery, which is said to have been rescued from the old
fish market in the 17th century. Prince Alfred's Court is smaller and more
intimate, planted with palms, pittosporum and a charming jacaranda tree. On
the elaborate clocktower four bronze figurines of Moorish slaves strike the
hours.
State Rooms
These is not included in the normal guided tours of the Grandmasters'
Palace. Visits start in the Tapestry Chamber, originally the Council
Chamber of the Knights. The walls here are hung with stunning Gobelin
tapestries, featuring tropical scenes set in South America, the Caribbean, India and Africa.
The tapestries, though nearly three centuries old, look as good as new, and
were given to the Order by Grand Master Ramon Perellos in 1710.
Of all the rooms the most magnificent is the Hall of St Michael and St
George, also known as the Throne Room, decorated with a cycle of 12
frescos, vividly portraying the 1565 Siege of Malta. The artist was Matteo
Perez d'Aleccio, an engraver and painter who had once helped Michelangelo
with the Sistine Chapel.
These highly detailed scenes start with the Fall of St Elmo on 23 June 1565
and end with the departure of the Turkish fleet from Malta on 8
September. Opposite the throne there is a charming gallery made from the
stern of the great carrack, the Santa Maria,
in which the Grand Master de l'Isle-Adam sailed away from the island of Rhodes in 1522, fleeing the forces
of Suleiman the Magnificient.
The Hall of the Ambassadors was originally the Grand Master's audience
chamber. Known also as the Red Room, this is decorated in crimson with
Louis XV furniture and a high frieze recalling episodes from the early
history of the Order when it still had bases in Jerusalem,
Cyprus and Rhodes.
Leading off the Hall of St Michael and St George, the State Dining Room has
magnificent 17th-century chandeliers and portraits of British monarchs,
from King George III to Queen Elizabeth II.
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